AdvantaClean of Two Rivers Case Studies
Location: St. Louis, MO 63115
Problem: This is a mold remediation/water damage mitigation job. We were called in to demo out an entire detached basement. The basement had been left vacant for some time while a foundation and air conditioning unit leak slowly soaked and rotted the wooden sub-floor from underneath. This caused the basement to have constant humidity and moisture that allowed mold to grow.
Solution: Containment was set up at the top of the basement stairs and an air scrubber was placed in the basement while work was in progress. We removed all affected substrates. Working from top to bottom, we started by removing the ceiling tiles. Then we removed the drywall and paneling, also taking out the studs taking the walls back to the original concrete. We then disassembled a built-in bar and removed a refrigerator, sink and other appliances. After all debris had been removed from the area we started on the sub-floor. Took out carpet, lenolium and then 2 layers of a plywood acting as a sub-floor.
Once down to original concrete walls and floor, we set up drying equipment to dry out the space (filled large trash can from all the moisture that was in the basement). Once dry we could then treat the ceiling joists, walls and floor with antimicrobial to kill any remaining mold that may have been spread around during the demo process. The space was now dry, mold free basement for the homeowner to use/rebuild.
Location: St. Charles, MO 63303
Problem: Owners of a new home were moving in and in the finished basement noticed some staining on the drywall from an old water event. After further investigation of removing a couple baseboards, mold was found on drywall and baseboards. Mold removal had to be performed.
Solution: We first set up an air scrubber and containment at the top of the basement stairs to prevent the spreading of mold to the rest of the house.
We then removed all of the baseboards to expose the areas of concentrated mold so we could begin investigatory demolition (removing drywall) in those areas. In this process, since we don't know the cause of the mold, we start by removing a small section of drywall to see if the mold is just surface mold or if there is mold present on the back side of the drywall as well. We then continue until taking out sections of drywall until no more mold is present.
In this case, we discovered that one layer of drywall was placed directly over an older layer of textured drywall, creating space for moisture to get caught and mold to grow. We then decided that to be sure to remove all of the mold, we would have to do a 4' flood cut throughout the entire basement. Removing both layers of drywall and any insulation and carpet.
Once the affected substrates were removed, we then hepa vacuumed, treated and wiped the wall studs, concrete walls, remaining upper drywall walls and floors with antimicrobial.
We then performed a duct cleaning to make sure no mold remained in the air system.
Location: St. Louis, MO 63115
Problem: A heavy rain left 6+ inches of standing water in a basement due to floor drains being clogged. Water damage removal had to be performed.
Solution: First, we had the drains unclogged to drain as much of the water as possible. Typically we would then remove all contents and then clean save-able items and discarding destroyed items. The owner opted to deal with the belongings themselves and just wanted us to get the basement dry. Next we pushed the remaining water to the drains with brooms and squeegees. After all the standing water had been removed we then set up fans and a dehumidifier, checking daily for the next couple days to ensure all the relating moisture and humidity was taken care of.
Location: Union, Missouri 63084
Problem: The customer had a mold problem and wanted to make sure the duct system was clean and mold free. The system had not been cleaned for a long time. Air duct cleaning was scheduled and mold removal was performed.
Solution: We decided to do a duct cleaning to ensure the customer's mold problem was completely taken care of.
For duct cleaning, we first hook up our machine which is a big vacuum that pulls all air and debris towards it. First on the return side and then the supply side, somewhere on the main trunk line. We then take compressed air, rods and brushes and clean each return and supply boot and line to the main trunk line. After cleaning each branch line we then clean the main trunk line back to where our machine is hook up. This ensures all dust and debris is collected by our machine. After cleaning each line, we then treat each line with an antimicrobial. Each vent cover or grill is hepa vaced and/or wiped to ensure cleanliness.
Once satisfied with the main lines, we then treat the main lines with antimicrobial. After the cleaning is complete, we button the system back up. Patching any holes we created for access per NADCA specifications. We then ensure our work area is left clean and Vac/sweep any debris we may have tracked around while performing the cleaning.
Location: St. Louis, MO 63136
Problem: Due to water intrusion from an exterior wall and humidity, this basement was infested with high levels of mold growth. We were called in to take care of a mold problem as well as install a sump pump and water trench system.
Solution: We started out by covering all of the customers belongings as not to damage or dirty the Customers belongings. We then removed the bottom 4’ of drywall around the entire basement, since the entire basement was affected. We then hepa Vacuumed all ceiling joists, walls, studs and floor. Once vacuumed, we treated and wiped all surfaces and studs with antimicrobial. Everything was then vacuumed again.
Once the mold remediation was complete, we then installed a sump pump and trench system to prevent this problem from happening again. The water coming into the basement would be diverted to the sump pump instead of the basement floor where it would then result with humidity and mold growth again.
First we hung a plastic containment wall to stop any debris or dust from covering the basement we had just cleaned. We then jack hammered out the area where the sump pump was to be installed and the trench area along the exterior wall where the water intrusion was located. A hole was dug to install the sump pump pit and plastic trenching was installed along the exterior wall. New Concrete was then placed around sump pump and over trenching to re-seal the floor. A sump pump was then installed with a battery backup. A sump pump drain line was installed to pump the water out of the basement and 10’ from the house.
Location: Florissant, MO 63034
Problem: A house on the market was tested and came back having very high Radon levels. We were called to install a radon fan system to reduce the levels of Radon.
Solution: First we determined the route we would need to take. It was determined that exiting the ban board into the garage and then exit through the roof of the garage.
A 3" hole was drilled through the concrete floor in the basement. PVC was then run strait up to the ban board and then out through another 3" hole cut in the ban board. Once in the garage, a fire collar is added and then the PVC continued up the wall past the garage joists. The fan is then installed and continued through the roof of the garage with another piece of PVC. A roof boot is then installed to keep water from the hole that the pvc is exiting.
After everything is set, an outlet was then installed for the fan to plug into, which will run continuously.
The area where the PVC meets the concrete basement floor is then sealed with caulk as well as the sump pump and any other large cracks in the floor. A meter is then installed to show that the fan is venting properly at all times.
Once the house was retested, the house had gone from dangerous levels of Radon to almost nothing!
Location: St. Peters, MO 63304
Problem: A customer’s radon test came back with elevated radon levels over 4, which is the "take action" level for radon. They decided to have us install a radon mitigation system.
Solution: First the best route from the basement to out of the house is determined. Most start in the basement (non-finished area) and run via PVC piping into the garage. Then it runs up the wall and out of the garage roof on the back side of the roof.
After the route is planned, the 3” hole is cut between the basement and garage. Pvc is run through the hole. Using this Pvc we then find the spot where the Pvc will enter the concrete basement floor. A hole is then drilled in the concrete floor and excess gravel and dirt are removed to insure good suction. Pvc is then run from the hole in the floor over to the basement wall and then up to the hole passing the Pvc through to the garage.
The Pvc then gets a fire collar where it enters the garage (per code) and then turns up and runs through the garage ceiling into the garage attic. Once in the attic, the fan is installed. A piece of Pvc is then run from the fan through the backside of the garage roof. A roof boot is installed where the Pvc exits the roof to ensure a water tight seal.
An electrical outlet is then installed in attic roof to run power to the radon fan. This is typically tied into the electrical running to the garage door.
All cracks in the basement are then sealed with caulk. The point where the Pvc runs into concrete floor is also caulked for an air tight seal. If a sump pump is present, a new lid is installed to seal it off.
A Manometer is then installed on the PVC line either in basement or garage to ensure the system is pulling air properly.
Location: Wentzville, MO 63385
Problem: Customer was having moisture problems during and after heavy rain. Finding multiple cracks as being the problem, we proceeded to repair the cracks
Solution: We start out by prepping the area. Clearing out any debris from the crack and the surrounding area around the crack and placing plastic on the floor bellow the crack to protect the floor from drips or spills.
We measured out spacing for our ports, which we adhere to the wall first along the crack. We use a quick drying paste which hold the ports in place. We then cover over the crack with paste from top to bottom. This blocks any access to the crack other than where the ports have been placed.
Once the paste had dried firmly in place, we then begin injecting the crack with the crack sealer from bottom to top. starting with the bottom, we inject until we see it starting to come out of the next port, ensuring we fill the entire crack, until we reach the top of the wall with our last port.
Our plastic is then removed from the floor after any leaking or drips has stopped
After curing, the cracks no longer allow moisture into the basement.